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Iron Mountain Beanie

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A few weeks ago I had the pleasure of meeting some of the wonderful people at Yarnspirations while at the Creativation Conference in Phoenix, Arizona.  We had a great chat, and they gave me some really nice yarn to try….hence the new Iron Mountain Beanie.  If you’ve never tried the Patons Alpaca Blend, now is your chance.  Don’t forget to jump over to Yarnspirations Facebook page and tell them thank you for sponsoring the ELKies!

Who couldn’t use another guy hat right?  I finished crocheting this hat this past weekend but didn’t get a chance to do the photography yet.  Emory was driving me crazy wanting to wear the hat before we did photos.  Once we were finished he said, “Now can I have the hat?”.  It was cute as he was walking away with it still on his head.

The Patons Alpaca Blend is a #5 Bulky weight yarn so the project works up rather quickly.  The blend of yarns really helps to create a beautiful stitch definition as you can see in the photo.  It’s one of those feel good type yarns and if you wanted to know if it’s warm.  Emory wore the hat hunting yesterday afternoon and said that was one of the warmest hats I had made for him.

You certainly need to be sure and check out the yarn because I have a surprise for all the ELKies.  Since Yarnspirations is sponsoring us, they have me a coupon code, and I just checked…..the yarn is on SALE!  So, you’ll get the yarn on sale for $5.99 plus use the code ELK20 for a 20% discount! The code expires February 24, 2018.

Go…..check out all 24 colors, pick out a few and start making the Iron Mountain Beanie today. (By the way, I’ve done a top down version coming out too).

Now let’s get on with the pattern, and I’ve even included a tutorial below to help get you started.

Please Favorite or Queue in Ravelry!

If you love top down versions…..you can get that too by clicking HERE.  You’ll want to see the color!

Supplies:

  1. Patons Alpaca Blend, #5 Bulky Weight, 60% Acrylic, 22% Wool, 10% Nylon, 8% Alpaca, 155 yards/100g, Colorway: Smoke
  2. Hook Size:  J/6.omm
  3. Tapestry Needle for Weaving in the ends.

Abbreviations:

blo – back loop only
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
rem – remaining
sc – single crochet
sp(s) – space(s)

Gauge: 14 sc and 14 rows = 4″

Finished Measurement:  20″,22″, 24″

Notes: 

  • Ch 1 in the first st is not considered the first sc in the pattern.
  • When I created my band, I crocheted 72 rows which made 20”.  After joining my band on round 1, I made 72 sc around the band.  If you need more or less rows to achieve your desired width, that’s okay.  Just remember in order for the stitch count to come out right, your first sc round must be divisible by 2.
  • I suggest that you end your rows for the band on an even number of rows.
  • The instructions for this hat, as given, will fit an adult measuring approximately 20″,22” and 24″.  The hat can easily be adjusted to meet other sizes.  When I completed the band (medium size), the 72 rows measured approximately 20” and fit perfectly on my model measuring 22”.  I gave a 2″ ease for stretching.

Band:

Leave a long tail (4”) before making your beginning ch.  You will use the tail later to join the band of the hat.

Row 1:  Ch 7, sc in 2nd chain from hook and in each remaining ch across, turn. (6 sc)

Row 2:  Ch 1, sc in first st and each rem st across, turn. (6 sc)

Repeat Row 2 until it reaches approx. 18″ (small, 66 rows), 20” (medium, 72 rows), 22″ (large, 78 rows). Don’t worry if you get more of less rows for the measurements.  As long as you end on an even row, you’ll be fine. Do not fasten off working yarn.  The working yarn and tail should end opposite of each other.

Forming Band:

Using 4’ tail and yarn needle, line up the two ends and whip stitch the seam and back loop stitches together to form the band.  Insert the hook into the working yarn and begin the body of the hat.

Body of Hat:
Round 1:  Ch 1, sc in first sp, sc in next sp and evenly around, join by sl st to first st. (66, 72, 78 sc)

Round 2:  Ch 1, *(sc,dc) in first st, skip next st, repeat from * around, join by sl st to sl st in previous round, sl st in first st.

Round 3:  Ch 1, sc in blo in first st, sc in blo in next st and each st around, join by sl st to first st.

Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 until you have reached 5″ (small), 6″(medium/large)

Decreasing Rounds are in multiples of 6

Round 1:  Ch 1, sc in first st, sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog, *sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around, join by sl st to first st. (55,60,65sc)

Round 2:  Ch 1, sc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, *sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around, join by sl st to first st. (44,50,55 sc)

Round 3:  ch 1, sc in first st, sc in next st, sc2tog, *sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog, repeat from *, join by sl st to first st. (33,40,45 sc)

Round 4:  ch 1, sc2tog, *sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, repeat from * around, join by sl st to first st. (22,30,35) sc)

Round 5:  Ch 1, sc in first st, sc2tog, *sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, join by sl st to first st, repeat from * around, join by sl st to first st. (27,40,33 sc)

Leaving a long tail.  Close the hole in the top of the beanie.  You can follow along my video tutorial by clicking HERE.  Fasten off.  Weave in the ends.

If you need a video tutorial to help you get started, no worries.  Just view the videos below. Don’t forget to subscribe to my channel while you are over there!

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Made for the Cold Beanie Top Down Version

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As many of you requested, you can now have the Made for the Cold Beanie in the top down version! I know it’s easier for lots of you to work from the top down….so here ya go!

You’ll still use the special stitching to create the double-layer effect to give such a nice and warm hat. What do ya’ll think about the “girly” version? I think you could add a pom-pom, a flower or even a button to really make it your own!

If you’ve never seen the original Made for the Cold, click HERE.

Please Favorite or Queue in Ravelry!

Supplies:  

  1. Red Heart Soft, #4 Worsted Weight Yarn, 141 grams/256 yards, 100% Acrylic, Colorway:  (1 skein) Charcoal, (1 skein) white OR (1 skein) Rose, (1 Skein) Cream
  2. I Hook/5.5 mm
  3. Tapestry Needle

Abbreviations:
blo – back loop only
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
sc – single crochet
sl st – slip stitch
yo – yarn over

Gauge: 13 dc sts and 8 rows = 4″

Finished Measurement:  Fits (22″) and is 8″ in length

Special Stitches: (Click HERE for a Video Tutorial)
Special Single Crochet: (ssc) Insert hook into st, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through one loop, insert hook in front loop only in round below, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops, YO, pull through last two loops.

Special Double Crochet:  (sdc) YO, insert hook into st, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops, YO, insert hook in front loop only in round below, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops, YO, pull through last 3 loops.

Notes:

  • Ch 1 is not considered the first single crochet in the pattern.
  • Ch 2 is not considered the first double crochet in the pattern.
  • When you starting crocheting your increases rounds, the hat (your flat cirlce) may not lay perfectly flat as most hats.  It’s okay if this happens because it’s one of the design elements due to the double-layering of the hat.  Just keep working with it because if you did lay it flat after you finished the last increase round, it would measure over 8″ for the “flat circle”….while that may not seem correct, the hat will fit perfectly.
  • For the guy version, Begin with Charcoal.  Change your color to white on Round 21 and Change to Charcoal on Round 23
  • For the girl version, Begin with Rose.  Change your color to cream on Round 18.

Round 1:  Ch 4, join to first chain to form a ring, Ch 2 (See Pattern Notes), 12 dc in ring, join by sl st to first st. (12 dc)

Round 2:  Ch 2, 2 dc in back loop only in first st, 2 dc in back loop only in next st and each rem st around, join by sl st to first st. (24 dc, 12 front loop only sts in round below)

Round 3:  Ch 2, *sdc (See Special Stitches) in first st,  sdc in next st but in same front loop as previous, *sdc in next st, sdc in next st but in same front loop as previous, repeat from *around, join by sl st to first st. (24 sdc)

Round 4:  Ch 2, dc in back loop only in first st, 2 dc in back loop only in next st, *dc in back loop only in next st, 2 dc in back loop only in next st, repeat from * around, join by sl st to first st. (36 dc, 24 front loop only sts in round below)

Round 5: Ch 2, sdc in first st, sdc in in next st, sdc in next st but in same front loop as previous, , *sdc in next st 2 sts, sdc in next st but in same front loop as previous, repeat from * around, join by sl st to first st. (36 sdc)

Round 6:  Ch 2, dc in back loop only in first st, dc in back loop only in next st, 2 dc in back loop only in next st, *dc in back loop only in next 2 sts, 2 dc in back loop only in next st, repeat from * around, join by sl st to first st. (48 dc, 36 front loop only sts in round below)

Round 7: Ch 2, sdc in first st, sdc in next 2 sts, sdc in next st but in same front loop as previous, *sdc in next 3 sts, sdc in next st but in same front loop as previous, repeat from * around, join by sl st to first st. (48 sdc)

Round 8:  Ch 2, dc in back loop only in first st, dc in back loop only  in next 2 sts, 2 dc in back loop only in next st, *dc in back loop only in next 3 sts, 2 dc in back loop only in next st, repeat from * around, join by sl st to first st. (60 dc, 48 front loop only sts in round below)

Round 9:  Ch 2, sdc in first st, sdc in next 3 sts, sdc in next st but in same front loop as previous, *sdc in in next 4 sts, sdc in next st but in same front loop as previous, repeat from * around, join by sl st to first st. (60 sdc)

Round 10:  Ch 2, dc in back loop only in first st, dc in back loop only in next st and each rem st around, join by sl st to first st. (60 dc)

Round 11:  Ch 2, sdc in first st, sdc in next st and each rem st around, join by sl st to first st.

Repeat Round 10-11 (3 times) or until your hat measures 6 1/2″-7″ for an 8″ length.

Round 18:  Ch 1, sc in first st, sc in next st and each rem st around, join by sl st to first st.

Round 19:  Ch 1, sc in blo in first st, sc in blo of next st and each rem st around, join by sl st to first st.

Round 20:  Ch 1, ssc (See Special Stitches) in first st, ssc in next st and each rem st around, join by sl st to first st.

Repeat Rounds 19-20 (2 times)

Round 25:  Ch 1, sc in first st, sc in next st and each rem st around, join by sl st to first st.  Fasten Off.  Weave in the ends.

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Joining a Project While Working in the Round

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Joining Your Project While Working in the Round by ELK Studio

Are you tired of your beanie hats showing a seam while working in the round?  I’ve been working on a different techniques of joining in the round for a while and think I may have come up with something that you will want to at least try.

Some of you may already know this, but I am left-handed and naturally crochet “backwards” (although the video demonstrates the “standard and forward way”).  I know how to crochet forwards too which is probably considered to standard way of crocheting.  But….since I can crochet backwards, I’ve realized that my seam was always on the inside of the hat.  It never occurred to me that it looked any other way until I started talking with others and seeing their work.

That’s when I thought about what I could do to make this work and decided to show you “my way” of doing things.  You might try it and decide it’s not for you.  That’s okay because as we go along this crochet journey we find things that work for us and things that don’t right?  I say give it a try because it just may be another tool that you can add to your crochet toolbox.

I want to give you a DISCLAIMER to say this technique works really well when you are using the same skein (color) of yarn or if you fasten off your work and join the new color with the standing single crochet or double crochet stitch.  Stay with me though because you can still use this technique and change colors but just do it “your old-fashioned way” on the changing color round and continue on with the project unless you are changing colors each row then this way may not work for you.  There’s a reason why but it would just be too complicated to try to explain.  You’ll have to trust me on this one.

Added Information:  Also, when I work a single crochet stitch and half-double crochet stitch, I use a ch 1 as my ‘filler” stitch.

Let me know what you think!!!  If you are in my ELK Studio Crocheter’s Group, you know that I’ve been working on getting this video loaded for days!  Any shares of this blog post would be much appreciated!

Right-Handed Version

 

Left-Handed Version

I hope you enjoy this tutorial! Have a great day!

Kathy

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